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With 20 seasons beneath its belt, “Excessive Chef” has always superior in an effort to protect its place as TV’s most prestigious cooking rivals current. Nonetheless when heading into Season 21, the Bravo mainstay wanted to make its greatest gear shift however: After a world season that gathered contestants from a slew of worldwide spinoffs in London, longtime host Padma Lakshmi launched her exit from the operate after larger than 15 years as a result of the sequence’ grounded coronary heart.

Fortuitously, Lakshmi’s successor is already well-known to the franchise’s followers. After profitable Season 10, in 2012, Kristen Kish has topped the shortlist of “Excessive Chef” alumni who burnish the current’s credibility with their subsequent success. In 2018, Kish opened her private restaurant, Arlo Grey, inside Austin’s Appropriate Lodge. She’s moreover developed experience as a presenter, co-hosting the Netflix reboot of “Iron Chef” with Alton Brown and traversing the globe for Nationwide Geographic’s “Consuming locations on the End of the World.”

Even alongside along with her observe file on and off the current, Kish’s addition to the judging panel has been strikingly seamless. Alongside chef Tom Colicchio and meals writer Gail Simmons, Kish has presided over a season that’s shaken up further than merely the strong: Its setting, Wisconsin, caused some observers to spice up an eyebrow — as compared with earlier areas like New Orleans or California, the Badger State isn’t as properly typically generally known as a culinary mecca. The foundations, too, have been scrambled. For the first half of the season, contestants might win immunity solely from elimination challenges, not the transient Quickfire that opens every episode; for the second half, Colicchio and Simmons have joined Kish in judging the Quickfire — and incorporating that judgment into elimination selections.

All of these changes have helped protect “Excessive Chef” modern. They’ve moreover given the judges fairly so much to debate, sometimes within the equivalent strongly opinionated, however always respectful, technique by means of which they weigh who will subsequent must pack their knives and go. Heading into the last word stretch of episodes, which may commerce the Midwest for a cruise inside the Caribbean, Simmons, Kish and Colicchio met with Choice inside the greenroom of Andy Cohen’s communicate current “Watch What Happens Reside” to debate life after Lakshmi, what they realized in Wisconsin and the best way the current has adjusted — or in some situations, maintained — its technique to highlighting experience over time.

With filming in London and the World All Stars format, remaining season was such an unlimited manufacturing. Sooner than that, there have been a few years of COVID disruptions. How did it actually really feel to return again once more to the States and a further regular “Excessive Chef” format? 

Gail Simmons: I really feel it was good. I really feel it felt like a reset for plenty of causes. Clearly, World All Stars was so enormous. We went worldwide. And London was extraordinary, nevertheless it was moreover a really troublesome season to make. A lot much less so for Tom and I, nevertheless our manufacturing truly struggled with various points being overseas. We’re a large crew; the Queen died inside the heart. Quite a few sudden circumstances. I really feel the consequence was unimaginable, and we’ve been so happy to have completed it. 

Coming once more to the States clearly streamlined the tactic barely further, nevertheless notably going to Wisconsin. Because of they’ve been so — I’ve on no account seen one thing desire it. They’ve been so excited to have us there, they often merely made taking footage very easy. So coming from that crazy, troublesome season — on account of we’ve been moreover then confronted with the reset of Padma leaving and Kristen coming — it merely made each factor easier in itself. 

Tom Colicchio: We went from being a small fish in an enormous pond to an enormous fish in a small pond.

Simmons: A lake! It was truly a lake.

I did want to talk regarding the Wisconsin of all of it. As compared with various the current’s locations, it’s possibly not as intuitive of a meals trip spot. I’m curious what your guys’s preconceived notions of meals in Wisconsin have been like going into the season.

Kristen Kish: I indicate, I grew up in Michigan, glorious over Lake Michigan. Milwaukee is true over from Grand Rapids. So I’ll say the meals was further associated than not. The deep historic previous and traditions of specific locations have been utterly completely different.

Nonetheless the Midwest often, as a way, I was very accustomed to. Rising up on the lake, grilling out on the seashore, certain white fishes and produce — all that stuff was acquainted. Then clearly, by the use of “Excessive Chef” and all the challenges, you be taught way more about this particular space. However it felt like a homecoming in  various strategies.

Simmons: I really feel the reality that it isn’t intuitively a recognized, top-tier meals metropolis was type of the aim. As soon as extra, as a distinction to London, however as well as on account of the aim of our current isn’t, the additional we do it, to point you all the points that everybody is aware of. It’s to uncover this nation and see it by the use of the lens of meals and uncover all these areas that you simply simply gained’t know, and do a deeper dig — not merely current you the beer and cheese of all of it. I appreciated that it was a spot that people didn’t depend on. All of us had the equivalent response that everyone else did! We’ve been like, “Really? We’re going to Milwaukee?” Nonetheless the response there was so optimistic. And I really feel it should get of us to think about how there’s good meals everywhere. 

Colicchio: What’s occurred inside the remaining 30 years or so is that cooks who’ve come to large cities to work have gone home. Probably they’re having children, they often must be near their households. It’s far more moderately priced to open a restaurant in Milwaukee than it’s in New York. I really feel in case you spoke to the standard one who lives in Milwaukee, they’d say that their meals scene inside the remaining 10 years has been very good. There’s good consuming locations there. One among many nation’s most interesting cooks, Paul Bartolotta, has consuming locations in Milwaukee. There’s a historic previous. Just because we don’t study it doesn’t indicate it’s not there. We ate fairly effectively there. In extra upscale consuming locations, in extra neighborhood bistros, however as well as, I had a variety of the best ethnic meals. 

Simmons: Serbian meals, Laotian meals. Finding out the historic previous of the immigration patterns on this nation informs the best solution to eat in each place. That’s kind of what we help to do on the current, and as well as in our downtime.

Have been there any notably good surprises for you that you simply simply didn’t primarily study entering into?

Colicchio: Serbian meals I’d on no account had sooner than. It’s utterly delicious.

Kish: The fish boil was a whole new experience.

Definitely certainly one of my most interesting associates is from Milwaukee and I texted him like, “You do what with kerosene?” 

Simmons: It’s bizarre.

Kish: You boil the residing daylights out of it, nevertheless it’s so good!

Colicchio: When you see it, it makes good sense. Part of the reason is, in case you boil fish and greens, there’s a scum that’s going to return again on excessive, and you could’t get shut enough to skim it. Normally in case you’ve acquired a pot and likewise you’re poaching fish, you’d skim that, correct? You could’t get shut enough. And so by throwing the kerosene on the end, it boils over. There’s motive behind it. I really feel [contestant] Dan [Jacobs] talked about it: “Who would boil fish?” However it’s truly good.

Courtesy of Bravo

I did must ask regarding the web internet hosting transition. When Padma launched her intention to depart, Tom and Gail, have been you guys the least bit part of the deliberative course of for what was going to return again subsequent?

Simmons: We weren’t part of the tactic when she launched to depart. That was a shock to us, too. Nonetheless certain, we undoubtedly talked at measurement with all of our authorities producers. We’ve been a workers for 18 years, and Padma was a humongous part of that workers. So we didn’t take the choice evenly. Lastly, it was not our different, who acquired right here subsequent. 

Kish: You may’ve struck it, though! 

Colicchio: There have been solely two names that acquired right here up, and Kristen was one amongst them. 

Simmons: We nearly knew the next day that there have been just a few picks that we felt have been truly the right specific individual for the job.

And when Kristen’s title acquired right here up, what made you say, “Oh, my God, that makes so much sense”?

Simmons: I indicate, of all the contestants which have been by the use of the seasons, I keep in touch with a handful of them. Every season, one or two of us, and we see each other at events. All of us work inside the commerce, so we protect observe of them. Nonetheless of all people, personally, Kristen was the actual individual I was closest to of any contestant. I’ve watched her evolve from the 12 months that she gained to now. She’s completed so much good television, nevertheless she nonetheless is cooking, and has an unimaginable restaurant. I felt like she had merely kind of come into her private. It was instinctive. It was like, “Kristen Kish. Positive.” 

Colicchio: Clearly, Kristen gained her season. Unbelievable chef. Nonetheless she’s been a customer determine as properly, so we knew that aspect. I discussed, “Good. I’d prefer to work alongside along with her. I really feel she’d be unbelievable.” And it turned out to be true. I really feel the cooks moreover admire that, as so much as we might sit there and critique them, Kristen’s been of their sneakers. And I really feel they respect that.

You’ve talked about you opted to not ask Padma for advice entering into, nevertheless have been there any factors of her web internet hosting presence or effectivity that you simply simply truly wanted to channel?

Kish: She is her and I’m me. The job was to not go in and be Padma. That will likely be a horrible mistake on so many different ranges, because it is likely to be vice versa. Clearly, she left pretty an impression. She connects with numerous folks. She could also be very, excellent. And what I took from all of that wrapped collectively is solely her presence. I don’t wish to repeat her presence, nevertheless she has presence. And I actually really feel like which may be a truly sturdy place to be, and one which I actually really feel like I’ve to work and proceed working at. Not shrinking to the room; standing up inside the room and taking up space. In order that’s one factor that I really like tremendously in her.

Simmons: As Padma most popular to say, “Shoulders once more, tits out.” In a joking method, not in an offensive method!

Kish: By nature, as soon as I used to be cooking, I was like, [whispers] “What’d you guys take into account the meals?” I was very small. And likewise you merely need to take up room and actually really feel cozy doing that with my voice and easily my presence.

Did the three of you’ve acquired any collective conversations or planning sooner than you started filming? 

Kish: There have been all the texts and points predominant as a lot because it; there have been calls with manufacturing. Nonetheless various it, and [Tom and Gail] can proper me if I’m incorrect or have a singular experience, it’s the best way you’re on this space collectively. You could’t truly anticipate or put collectively, “That’s the means it’s going to be.” Clearly, there’s a rapport and friendship amongst the three of us, nevertheless we had on no account been in that context truly collectively as a result of the three of us. 

I inform this story frequently. Tom, he observed me pacing, nearly throwing up and virtually crying my eyes out. I was so nervous. And he pulled me aside and rang a bell in my memory that that’s one factor that I already know the way you are able to do. It’s cooking. It’s pre-shift. It’s addressing your workers. It’s giving strategies. It’s mentoring. And I actually really feel like as rapidly as I was able to understand that it’s precise life, it’s not that I’ve to play a job of myself, I acquired cozy.

Colicchio: It’s truthful to take a look at it as precise life that’s merely being captured, versus, “We’re on TV.” I don’t assume any of us check out it as if we’re on TV. Yeah, we’re in make-up, and maybe there’s any individual dressing us. Nonetheless we’re not performing. We’re merely working with cooks, which we do sometimes. We came upon a really very long time prior to now that the one method for the viewers to know the meals and cooks is for us to have an excellent, honest dialog about meals. And so that’s all we do. However they edit it, they edit it. Nonetheless that’s our job.

Kish: I really feel there’s always an expectation — notably with me, being a viewer of the current for nearly all of my life — you see all of it pulled collectively in 45 minutes or 50 minutes of television. After which I had this idea that I’ve to fit in that fifty minutes. However it couldn’t be farther from the fact. It truly is solely residing. 

Simmons: The conversations we now have are hours-long sometimes. It’s as a lot as [production] to then create the narrative from it. They don’t push us in that method. They understand that that’s whilst you get the precise rapport with the cooks; that’s how we be part of with our viewers. So within the occasion that they permit us to have these conversations, they’re gonna get what they need. And we’re in a position to moreover inform the fact and be cozy and by no means actually really feel like we now need to get that, you already know, biting soundbite.

I really feel we’ve come a terrific distance. And it took us a pair seasons to start with to find out that out. To not must be the villain. If one thing, the contestants will let you understand after that our conversations are literally constructive. And that’s what’s important, I really feel, for making it actually really feel real to the viewers.

Courtesy of Bravo

The season had some predominant rule changes. A number of of them have been further a matter for manufacturing, like shifting immunity to elimination challenges, nevertheless one factor that involved you as judges was incorporating your strategies into the Quickfire and Quickfire into eliminations. I was questioning the best way you felt about that change. 

Colicchio: It meant further work for us, so I wasn’t happy about it.

Simmons: Actually, every of the foremost changes to the gameplay that we made this season — the immunity now being inside the elimination drawback, and Tom and I coming into the Quickfire — have been the outcomes of prolonged conversations. One factor that Padma struggled with was that she was the one one who tasted all of those dishes. And on the equivalent time, it meant that the Quickfire had low stakes. Positive, there was a winner and loser or losers, and the winner acquired immunity, nevertheless the losers, the weakest dishes, there was no stakes there. So all you wanted to do was get by the use of it, you’re on no account going to be eradicated, there’s on no account going to be a outcomes of that. And so it gave them a chance to play it safe inside the Quickfire fairly so much.

So now that Tom and I are there for the ultimate half of the season, it permits us to then convey these dishes into our Judges Desk at situations after we wish it, after we’re at a standstill. If there’s two dishes that we anticipate are literally the most effective we’re in a position to resolve, properly, who did increased inside the Quickfire? If there’s two dishes or three dishes which could be on the underside, and we’re in a position to’t resolve, properly, how did they do inside the quickfire? And now that dialog for the very first time is likely to be regarding the episode as a whole, when sooner than it was always solely regarding the dish in entrance of us. I really feel that makes all people step up their recreation.

Colicchio: I’m kind of blended on the whole factor. I’ll be honest. Workflow aside.

One of the best ways we determine, we determine the dishes in entrance of us. In case you occur to win three in a row, it doesn’t matter. You make the worst dish, you go home. We’ve modified that now. In case you occur to win, you could make the worst dish, nevertheless you’re staying. Which signifies that in case you make the worst dish, instead of going home, any individual else goes to go home.

Simmons: In case you occur to made the worst dish, you’re nonetheless going home! We don’t even convey inside the Quickfire. We solely convey the Quickfire in when we’ve to.

Colicchio: I’m not talking regarding the Quickfire, I’m talking about immunity!  When you’ve immunity, you could make the worst dish and by no means go home.

Simmons: Nonetheless that’s always been immunity! It changes the circulation barely bit, for sure.

Colicchio: Personally, I’d remove immunity.

Kish: Ooooh!

I actually really feel like I’m sitting in on a deliberation. 

Simmons: Exactly. That’s how we do it. 

Colicchio: We sit down and we hash it out. Every change that we’ve made usually happens organically. And there’s usually a dialogue about it. I indicate, we had a extremely prolonged dialogue about [the Quickfire]. Do you convey it in every time? Do you convey it in offered that it’s shut?

Simmons: We’re attempting it. The great issue is, we make the foundations. We meaning our complete manufacturing workers. So if we don’t desire it, and it doesn’t play properly, by the highest of season, we’re in a position to take it away subsequent season. 

Kish: Or do a no immunity season.

Simmons: I indicate, that’s a large idea, Kristen Kish:

Kish: You heard it proper right here first. 

Simmons: Don’t give it away! If we announce subsequent season is an immunity-free season, you probably can break the knowledge. You could have been inside the room. 

Kish: With the Quickfire this 12 months, there’s always money linked to it. Which, I’ll say, whilst you step away out of your life and your job, and oftentimes you don’t receives a fee. Like, I didn’t protect getting my wage. You hope to make barely bit of money.

Simmons: And I really feel nearly all people does. Like, nearly every contestant walked away with not lower than 5 grand. A number of of them walked away with like, 50 grand merely from Quickfires.

Kish: I suppose I can solely talk for myself. My salaries [as a chef] have been very, very low. You don’t make some enormous money. You’re employed your ass off. I was a sous. As soon as I went on Excessive Chef 10 years prior to now, at the moment, I had on no account seen a $10,000 look at. Like, that’s totally abroad to me, and to have the power to walk away with larger than that? Life altering!

One different change that I believed was truly fascinating was all through Restaurant Wars when the judges have been break up into two camps. 

Simmons: So we’ve break up up many situations, and it’s always troublesome. 

Colicchio: We used to separate up for finales, and it was horrible. In case you occur to return to the [New Orleans] season with Nina [Compton] and Nick [Elmi], that was a large degree of competitors. 

Simmons: We might have two utterly utterly completely different experiences.  What has occurred beforehand after we’ve break up up is {{that a}} dish inside the menu is horrible on the first spherical, they see that it was unhealthy for the judges, so that they restore it for the alternative judges. Nonetheless now we now have two people who had a wonderful dish and two people who had a nasty dish. So how do you determine after we had two utterly utterly completely different experiences? And we now have to decide on one winner, nevertheless mine was legitimately good. And his was legitimately not. And so it turns into truly, truly troublesome points. 

Colicchio: I understand why, nevertheless it’s so laborious to judge. However it’s always good to aim varied issues. Various stuff happens organically. Going once more to the Chicago season, they’d always inform us after we’re completed consuming, “Don’t discuss it. Put it apart for Judges Desk.” Nonetheless we’re always mic’d up. So there was a level the place we did a block social gathering. After the block social gathering, we’ve been sitting on a stoop, and we’ve been talking about meals. Somebody acquired right here by and talked about, “Put it apart for Judges Desk!” We talked about, “No, get a digital digicam and shoot this.” And they also did. That grew to grow to be the pre-deliberation that we now have on location. It grew to grow to be an element. And it’s good! What it did is, it was truly modern. It appeared further pure. Plus, it decrease off having to do that at Judges Desk.

Courtesy of Bravo

It looks as if by means of the years like “Excessive Chef,” the judging requirements have superior along with the current.

Colicchio: Mmm, no. 

Simmons: Properly, what do you indicate by that? 

It feels similar to the current is further quite a few inside the kinds of meals it showcases and honors. 

Simmons: Downside-wise, certain, nevertheless not primarily our requirements. 

I really feel you’re correct, enormous picture-wise. Nonetheless I really feel that’s solely reflective of the evolution of meals over the previous 20 years. It’s like a hen and egg state of affairs. Did we start it? Or is that merely one of the simplest ways that the world, thank goodness, has — take into account what’s occurred on the planet, merely inside the restaurant world, over the previous 20 years, correct? There was various disruption, not merely COVID, nevertheless the #MeToo state of affairs. The kind of breaking of what was, in various areas, a extremely toxic custom inside the restaurant commerce. The considered a consider selection. We always actually had pretty good selection on the current. Nonetheless we’ve pushed it and pushed it and pushed it, on account of I really feel that’s far more reflective of how kitchens have completed the equivalent. I really feel it’s very aligned to the commerce, and the course that the whole commerce has gone. Nonetheless I’m truly glad. 

In some strategies, we now have, I really feel, spearheaded these changes. As an example, this could be a small issue. Nonetheless from Season 1, Episode 1, we had a 50% male-to-female ratio inside the current. Let me assure you, that was on no account — nonetheless shouldn’t be — the ratio reflective of the particular world. Nonetheless we always did it. We’ve pushed selection; that’s always been on our agenda. Because of I really feel we’ve realized, naturally, that the evolution, the narrative of these cooks — it’s solely fascinating after they’re cooking authentically, and after they’re cooking the meals that they love, regardless of that’s. So I really feel that that has been a large degree, nevertheless it’s moreover very reflective of how our nation must eat now.

Colicchio: Moreover, I really feel various that has to do with the strategies we’ve given the cooks by means of the years. So for instance, Nina. Various her teaching was in Italian consuming locations, beneath Scott Conant, and she or he cooked implausible Italian meals. Nonetheless when she cooked Caribbean meals, that’s what we responded to. Like, “Wow, that’s unbelievable.” She acquired that kind of strategies. She’s like, “OK, this supplies me permission to do that.”

Simmons: Related with Shirley [Chung]. Gregory [Gourdet].

Colicchio: Nonetheless we’re in a position to’t assume that, on account of Kristen is Korean, she’s gonna put together dinner Korean meals. I’ve seen that happen.

Merely look to the New York Events. As soon as I used to be arising, 40 years prior to now, the one consuming locations that acquired reviewed have been French consuming locations. Probably an Italian restaurant. That was it. You then undoubtedly start seeing New American delicacies. Now, each factor’s obtainable. So certain, I really feel the cooks are cooking further quite a few meals now. They know that we’re going to judge it evenly. Nonetheless our judging hasn’t modified. I’m nonetheless , “Is one factor seasoned?” I don’t care if it’s from Angola or Antarctica if one factor’s seasoned precisely. 

Simmons: Sometimes I’ve heard, “Properly, you don’t know that meals. So how will you determine it fairly when it’s new to you?” And that’s true. We on no account declare to be consultants in each factor. That’s the beauty of meals, that every single dish we eat, we’ve on no account eaten sooner than. And there’s nonetheless 1,000,000 dishes and parts and sorts of meals available on the market to seek out and understand and examine personally. Nonetheless the exact understanding of strategy — there’s a subjective aspect to judging meals and an objective aspect. The goal aspect is, “Are the knife cuts completed properly? Is the cooking of the meat appropriate?” 

Colicchio: Curry goat, for instance. I’ve had curry goat from cooks who aren’t very good. The meat’s highly effective. It’s not seasoned properly. Nonetheless I’ve had it from any individual who actually is conscious of how one can braise his meat and it’s implausible. Have I ever made curry goat? No. Nonetheless technically, I perceive the way it’s alleged to be cooked. And just because any individual’s making curry goat doesn’t indicate it’s all of the equivalent. A larger put together dinner will make a larger dish. That’s how I check out it. Is it seasoned? Is it cooked precisely? Creativity is the very last item I check out, on account of it’s barely too subjective.

“Excessive Chef” has such a robust connection to the restaurant world. It’s clearly not the best time inside the commerce. Two of you, Kristen and Tom, are restaurant householders. What are your concepts on the state of the restaurant commerce correct now? Do you see any path forward that makes it further sustainable?

Kish: I’ve one restaurant. Tom has many. 

Colicchio: I’ve 4!

Kish: Properly, a number of. So I wanted to find what labored for and what was sustainable for me, correct? Not solely my time, what I’ll give to it. And for me, the considered a restaurant inside a lodge works. I uncover it useful. It’s acquired various varied issues in play that make it further sustainable. I notably desire it. There was as quickly as a time the place you look and likewise you’re like, “Ugh, you’ve acquired a lodge restaurant now?” I’ve a restaurant inside a lodge. And for me, there’s various utterly completely different players that I uncover truly useful. Sustainably speaking, having that in-built infrastructure, workers, of us to help me create my imaginative and prescient.

Colicchio: It’s a humorous phrase, sustainability. Craft’s been open for 23 years. Gramercy Tavern, 30 years. In case you occur to try some groups similar to the Boka Group out of Chicago, they’ve 30 consuming locations. All have been pretty worthwhile. My restaurant in L.A. closed on account of my lease was up and I didn’t must be there anymore. It’s always been the case in consuming locations, the first 12 months survival worth’s like 10%. It’s always been a hard enterprise. And likewise you’re not making some enormous money. 

I warning cooks, notably cooks who go on “Excessive Chef”: “Your life’s gonna change. You’re gonna get pulled 1,000,000 directions.” And in case you don’t have the infrastructure to actually have a workers, so that you probably can go and do the festivals, your restaurant’s gonna hurt. It doesn’t carry out by itself. 

Kish: Maintain in your restaurant. Give of us a spot to return again uncover you.

Colicchio: When you’ve been working a restaurant for 15 years and also you’ve acquired a workers constructed up, you’ve acquired a variety of consuming locations, then you probably can go and it’s OK. Nonetheless in case you’re not prepare to do that, if the restaurant goes to miss you, in case you’re not going to be there, you then possibly shouldn’t go away. 

Progress is one different drawback. For anyone attempting to develop, I inform them, “The very very first thing you do is look at your ego on the door.” In case you occur to imagine you’re the one one who can do it, you then’re the one one who does it. There’s various reason why consuming locations are closing. Nonetheless in case you check out it, there are a lot of consuming locations which could be sustainable corporations. As many consuming locations shut, I wager you subsequent 12 months as many consuming locations open. I really feel that there are operators which will navigate by the use of this and some that don’t. Various the youthful cooks that don’t have an infrastructure are gonna uncover it laborious.

Simmons: Merely go to Milwaukee!

Actually, that’s type of an excellent remaining end result. Individually, I’m investing — my first time ever, by one of the simplest ways. I always talked about I’ll on no account open a restaurant, however when there was any individual I truly believed in, I’d put my money the place my mouth is. I’m doing that with a bakery, which doesn’t actually really feel like a financially sane proposition. Nonetheless all to say, she was in New York for years and years, this woman, and I always wanted to help her, nevertheless it’s unattainable.

She’s shifting to Honolulu, opening in Honolulu. It’s the most effective issue ever. Because of you’ll be able to do it. There’s further sustainable safeguards there for her. And it’s a so much higher top quality of life and worth of residing. She’s serving the realm folks. I merely assume the possibility goes to be shifting out of these hubs, and which will up the game throughout the nation. You acknowledge, there’s a silver lining.

This interview has been edited and condensed for readability.

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